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How to Install Nock Out® Lighted Nocks

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Installing Lighted Nocks | Nock Out® Contender Nocks

Nock Out® lighted nocks has developed an impressive lighted nock for compound shooters that is durable and accurate while being simple and easy to use. The Contender vertical lighted nocks fit X,H,S/GT shafts with the included universal bushing kit contained in each package, making them the perfect fit no matter what size arrow shaft is in your archery setup.

Nock Out® includes the needed bushings to make the Contender lighted nocks truly a universal fit for any arrow in the industry from 5mm all the way up to 6.5mm shafts. Installing the nocks at home is an easy process that requires few tools. Some items you will want to have on hand include bowstring wax, a pair of needle nose pliers, and possibly a universal nock tool for inserting and indexing nocks. Organize your arrow shafts, tools, and Contender nocks on a clean level work surface, and follow these few steps to smoothly install your new Contender lighted nocks by Nock Out.

Lancaster Archery Supply – Lighted Nock Contender Install

Steps to Proper Lighted Nock Setup

  • Remove the orange C clamp located midway on the nock body with needle nose pliers. This clip is used strictly for packaging purposes.
  • Identify the arrow shaft size and the appropriate bushing for your arrow shaft.
    • Contender nocks fit 5mm or X shafts directly from the package with no bushing required.
    • 6mm (H) and 6.5mm (S/GT) shafts require the use of the included appropriate bushing.
  • For 5mm or X shafts at .204” ID the Contender Nocks are ready to install after the removal of the orange C clamp. Simply apply a liberal amount of bowstring wax to the lower nock body and insert the nock into the shaft. Take care to index the nock to the arrow fletching according to your arrow rest. Never force your Contender Nocks into the shaft by forcing the nock and shaft down onto a hard surface without a nock tool.
  • When installing the Nock Out® Contender nocks into 6mm (H) or 6.5mm (S/GT) arrow shafts, first remove the orange C clip on the lower nock body. Identify the appropriate bushing for your arrow shaft from the packaging. Insert the nock into the bushing before pushing the bushing into the arrow shaft. After installing the nock into the appropriate bushing with the orange C clip removed, apply liberal bowstring wax to the exterior of the bushing and insert into your arrow shaft. Take care to index the nock to the arrow fletching according to your arrow rest. Again, never force your Contender Nocks into the arrow shaft by forcing the nock and shaft down onto a hard surface without a nock tool.
  • Key takeaways to installing the Contender lighted nocks are to be sure and utilize bowstring wax on the nock body during installation, do not force the nock into the arrow shaft by pressing the nock down onto a hard surface, and remember to index the nock according to your arrow’s fletching and bow rest.

The Contender lighted nocks are activated by string pressure at the shot. During the installation process it is easy to pull back on an installed nock that has been activated to turn off the illumination. Be sure your lighted nocks are not activated when you finish the installation process to conserve battery life.

Tuning Nocks

Crossbow Bolts | Information for the Beginning Crossbow Hunter

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What You Need to Know About Crossbow Bolts

With the use of crossbows as a hunting weapon gaining popularity rapidly across much of the country, beginning crossbow hunters are seeking out what to look for when purchasing crossbow bolts. Sure, it is important to research the actual model and brand of crossbow like any other piece of hunting equipment before making a purchase, however, what many hunters and shooters are missing is what bolt is best for their crossbow setup and for the species of animal they intend to shoot. Deciding on which crossbow bolt to shoot, what the best crossbow bolt is for you, or building crossbow bolts specifically for a hunt is information that any crossbow hunter should know.

Looking for a Reliable Crossbow Bolt

A lot of variables make up a good crossbow bolt. Until you know which bolt performs the best from your crossbow it is not as simple as walking into your pro shop and purchasing a six-pack of bolts and hoping for the best. Crossbow bolt length, the weight of the entire bolt, type of nock, and shaft material should all be considered before making an initial purchase. Crossbow manufacturers have recommendations for which type of bolt shoots best and these recommendations should be followed. They will also provide the necessary information for the weight, length, and nock type for their crossbow. However, when it comes down to it, it’s obviously up to each individual hunter to choose the best crossbow bolt for their crossbow using the guidelines set by the crossbow manufacturer. If you do not shoot the correct bolt or nock, you run the risk of damaging the crossbow and/or yourself.

 

KILLERTECH™ PRO 20” CROSSBOLTS

Killer Carbon Meets lighted performance – our KillerTech™PRO bolt now comes pre-installed with industry-leading NockOut™ lighted crossbow nocks. Killer Instinct® Lumix Lighted Nocks stand up to repeated use put of high-powered, high-performance crossbows – proven dependable after hundreds of shots! We are confident these bolts will exceed your expectations and improve your confidence in the field.

 

Crossbow Bolt Construction

Crossbow bolts are similar to construction to that of arrows shot from compound bows. But, with many crossbows shooting more than 400 fps, the bolts need to be tough enough to prevent them from exploding when shot.

Bolt Length

Bolts range in length from 16” to 22”. The most common length is 20-inches. It is possible to get away with a longer bolt than recommended, but anything shorter than what is recommended could cause the broadhead or field point to get caught on the crossbow rail when fired. However, it’s hard to think of one good reason why you would shoot a bolt longer than the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Bolt Weight

The total weight of the bolt includes the weight of the bolt, crossbow nock, insert, vanes, and broadhead or field point. Just about all bolt manufacturers will list how many grains each shaft weighs or how many grains are in each inch of the shaft. For example, your bolt might say 15 grains per inch (GPI). If your bolt is 20-inches, multiply 15 x 20 to figure your bolts weight. In this example it is 300 grains. Now all you have to do is add the weight of the nock, insert, vanes and tip for a total weight. A heavier bolt, at least 400 grains not including the head, will have better downrange energy and offer better penetration. Keep in mind that even though a bolt will leave the rail quickly, a heavier bolt will quickly lose power as it flies. A bolt on the lighter end of the manufacturer’s recommendations will fly faster and will give the shooter an extended range but might not get the desired penetration.

When purchasing a crossbow, the speed ratings are often rated using a 400-grain arrow. The heavier your arrow is, the slower it will fly. For example, if your crossbow is rated at 350 fps, it will only travel at about 315 fps if you are shooting a 500-grain bolt. This matters when thinking about kinetic energy. How fast your bow shoots, the total mass of the bolt, and distance traveled all plays into how much force is delivered upon impact. Keep in mind that the larger your broadhead is, the more kinetic energy is required to get good penetration.

A Bolt’s Kinetic Energy

For small animals like deer and antelope, 23 pounds of energy is the minimum amount of kinetic energy needed. For bigger animals like elk and black bear, the minimum is about 43-pounds and bigger animals like grizzly bears will require 63 pounds of energy. For every 10 yards your bolt travels, you can expect to lose 3 to 4-percent of energy. If you bolt is delivering 80-foot-pounds of force at the initial shot you can expect at 10-yards you will receive 78 to 77-foot-pounds of kinetic energy. At 20-yards those numbers drop to 75 -74-foot-pounds of kinetic energy.

There are several kinetic energy calculators on the internet that will help you figure out how much kinetic energy your bow is delivering. However, you can figure it for yourself. All you need to know is the feet per second (fps) a bolt is flying and the total mass weight of your bolt.

KE=(mv²)/450,240

M= total mass of arrow (grains)

V= velocity of arrow (fps)

Bolt Fletching and FOC

As far as vanes go, some people prefer the smaller 2-inch vanes over the larger 4 or 5-inch vanes. The reason some like to shoot the smaller vanes has a lot to do with the arrow front of the center ratio (FOC). The smaller vanes will take away some of the weight off the rear of the bolt. This will add to the FOC. Depending on your overall setup, smaller vanes can help improve accuracy. Once you have decided on length and the total weight of the arrow, practice shooting some bolts with different sizes of vanes to see which one flies better for you.

Crossbow Nocks

Nocks come in several styles and shooting the wrong one from your crossbow could result in the string jumping the nock and causing a dry fire. Look to see if your crossbow shoots half moon, flat back, capture, or hybrid moon nocks. From there you will want to find a lighted crossbow nock that is the same type of nock. Because crossbows are delivering bolts as such a high rate of speed, they are often difficult to see upon impact. This often leaves the hunter guessing where the bolt struck the animal. To combat this problem it is a good idea to use a lighted nock. The two styles of lighted crossbow nocks by Nock Out® are half moon and flat back. Always use the nock type your crossbow is designed to shoot. Most crossbows will not shoot both styles of nocks.

Broadhead Considerations

Companies are now offering expandable blades designed specifically for crossbows. They are very similar to the same head you would shoot out of your compound. Whether you plan on shooting a fixed blade or an expandable specific for crossbows be sure to sight your crossbow in for the broadhead you intend to shoot. Even if you are shooting the bullseye at 30 yards with your field point that does not mean a bigger broadhead will fly the same. With expendables, you stand a better chance of getting the same grouping you did with your field points.

Building Your Own Bolts

If you plan on building your own bolts, it not very complicated. Just be sure each bolt is constructed using the same components. You do not want different grains of inserts, nocks, etc. If you were to do this, no two bolts would fly the same. Even when everything should be equal you might find that one bolt is a little off.

Every component of the bolt will affect how it flies and even penetrates. It might seem overwhelming to try and figure all this out at first. But, it is really a lot easier than you think. The crossbow manufacturer’s recommendations will give you a jump start. It is then up to you make the necessary little adjustments to get the bolt that flies best for you.

Shop Crossbow Nocks

Tips for Developing Your Bow Hunting Plot

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Bow Hunting Food Plot Tips

Feature Flatline Whitetails

Bow hunting food plots can be, and most likely are, essential to your bow hunting strategy. However, knowing where to develop them, how to develop them, and how to maintain them can be very overwhelming. That’s why it’s important for you to clearly define the purpose of your food plot, set a goal, and set realistic expectations for the plot. Questions to ask yourself are:

  • Do you want to grow larger deer?
  • Do you want a larger population?
  • Are you simply looking for a spot that will help you harvest more deer?
  • When do you want to hunt the plot?
  • What species is best for your goals?
  • What resources do you have to plant the plot?
  • What food plot or design best aligns with your expectations?

Knowing the answers to these questions will help you create a successful food plot. However, only you can answer these questions. A magazine, video, or blog will not tell you the magic equation for your specific situation. There are too many variables involved. You can however receive some valuable knowledge to steer your strategy. Defining your goals and expectations, and combine that with helpful food plot knowledge will help you select the right locations, seed choices, and strategies to implement with food plots. This blog will provide you with the knowledge and considerations to help you steer towards that ideal bow hunting food plot.

Picture: Flatline Whitetails

Pick a Strategic Location and Species

Once goals and resources are considered, you can begin the process of establishing the food plot by selecting the right location and species. There are normally two types of plots to plan for that influence location and seed selection:

  1. Kill plots
  2. Feeding plots

Kill plots exist to help you harvest more deer. Feeding plots allow you to monitor, grow, and protect your herd. It is important to differentiate the two, and how each are considered to be bow hunting food plots, as they both play pivotal roles in the overall strategy.

Kill Plots

Perennial plot species like clover, easily one of the best food plot species, tends to do well for both kill plots and feeding plots. Clover specifically does not require much in the way of planting, and maintenance, but it also tends to be browse tolerant and shade tolerant…ideal for small bow hunting food plots.

Clover plots are among the most popular bow hunting plots because the species make great staging area food plots. These are small areas that deer, and more importantly bucks stage in before progressing into larger food source or destination feeding plots. The idea behind staging plots is that it presents the opportunity to shoot a deer before legal light fades, as deer typically appear in staging areas before waiting for the cover of darkness to enter an intimidating larger plot. For the most part, staging areas are kill plots, a plot location, design, and shape for harvesting deer.

Entry and exit routes are the most critical factor that influences location of kill plots besides deer behavior and movement. Utilize features like creeks, terrain, rising or sinking thermals, thick brush, food plot screens, logging roads, or anything else that can give you an edge to be quiet and scent free on your entry. Shift access around or away from where deer are bedding or traveling. Your entry and exit should be on the downwind side of the stand or blind you plan on bow hunting in. Looking out for these features should steer your decision of plot placement.

Picture: Flatline Whitetails

Feeding Plots

While perennial species like clover can easily take the roll of feeding plots, annuals like corn and soybeans tend to be the species of choice for feeding plots. These, mostly large-scale food plots (3+ acres) are destination food sources that can provide enough food for continual feeding through most if not the entire year. Soybean, particularly varieties that mature early and provide high yields of grain provide summer nutrition and late season food sources. If species like winter rye and winter wheat are planted with the beans (in the fall when beans start turning) a green food source can be provided in the same plot that will provide forage through winter and spring. The location of these destination food sources are just as, if not more important than the placement of your kill plots. A feeding plot determines the direction of deer travel on a property, influence bedding areas, and determine the location of your kill plots.

Picture: Flatline Whitetails

Typically destination food sources are untouched, leaving deer unpressured so movement across a property is not hindered. This movement is in turn targeted for hunting between the destination food source and the bedding areas. This area of transitional movement is the perfect spot for a bow hunting kill plot. Whether you hunt that plot or not is determined by trail camera and scouting Intel, wind direction, and the level of pressure you want to put on the plot.

Tips for Better Bow Hunting Food Plots

Knowing the location and type of species is the biggest decision when developing bow hunting plots. Here are some helpful tips when it comes time to actually turn over the dirt!

Know the Soil

The first thing you need to do once you pick out your ideal location and choice of species to plant is to get your soil tested. The results will help you determine what you should and should not plant, how much lime and fertilizer (particularly nitrogen) may be needed, and what quality of a plot you can expect.

The best part? Soil tests are easy to get. Simply bring a sample into your local feed store, conservations district, local extension service, or if you have to, order one to take yourself. This will not only help you grow a better yield, but also save you money on unnecessary lime and fertilizer costs.

Picture: Flatline Whitetails

Plant Wisely

When it comes to the actual planting, there are numerous things that need to be considered. However, the details of each are dependent on your location, choice of seed, size of plot, and ultimate goals. In summary, these are the things every hunter should be aware of when planning their plot:

  • Kill existing vegetation
  • Try to plant before a rain
  • Use lime and fertilizer to prime the soil
  • Plant towards the sun (for maximum exposure in short fall days)
  • Know the correct planting depth (depending on the seeds you have chosen)
  • Keep up with weeds
  • Add subsequent fertilizer as necessary
  • Don’t babysit the plot to avoid unneeded pressure

Maintain the Plot

Depending on what you chose to grow, you will need to selectively keep up with the changing conditions of the plot. Soybeans and corn will need to be sprayed for weeds. This is easiest with a roundup ready soybean or corn variety. Clover and alfalfa require more selective herbicides such as a broadleaf selective herbicide (2-4D B (butryac)) and a grass selective herbicide (clethodim or sethoxydim). You can also mow these species, but mowing can take valuable food and soil moisture away from these food plots which can hurt the plot in the long run. Depending on your crop of choice, it may also be necessary to supplement with more fertilizer shortly after planting.

Avoid Too Much Pressure

Pressure on both feeding plots and kill plots has been a reoccurring point for this blog, but that stresses the importance. After putting all of the work and resources into a food plot, one of the biggest mistakes people make is spending too much time in it. This leaves your scent and presence throughout the entire area. Pushing the deer out of the food plot defeats the purpose of putting it there in the first place and the consequences could be drastic come hunting season. Therefore, once it’s planted, limit your time there. Outside of checking your trail cameras and keeping an eye on your crop, stay out! Try to stay on vehicle as much as possible, and avoid visiting it during peak activity.

Picture: Flatline Whitetails

Evaluate the Plot

Once the season is over, it’s critical that you evaluate the plot, the deer movement within the plot, and its success rate. Some evaluation points to think about and track are:

  • Are deer feeding throughout the peak activity times in your destination food sources?
  • Are deer working through your staging area kill plots?
  • Are their patterns being developed by particular bucks on the kill or feeding plots?
  • What plots are deer avoiding and why?
  • What other tactics could you employ in the plot to make it more attractive (waterholes, mock scrapes, food plot screens)?

This will help you determine its viability for future use, and possible changes you could make, whether it be location, choice of seed, stand placement, or more advanced bow hunting plot tactics that you could have engaged in.

Picture: Flatline Whitetails

Finding Success with Bow Hunting Plots

Creating and managing successful bow hunting food plots is hard work. It requires self-education, dedication, time, and labor. However, the key to success is consistency and observation. Make small changes and improvements where necessary, keep an eye out for opportunities, and keep your plots active for years to see trends and patterns develop.

Over time, you’ll see the effort pays off. Not only will you see more deer, but you’ll create better bow hunting opportunities. Bow hunting food plots eventually may be your biggest success in your overall bow hunting strategy.

Early Season Bow Hunting

Nock Out® Field Journal Ep.4 | Bow Hunting Turkeys No Blind

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Bow Hunting Turkeys With No Blind with The Virtue’s TJ Unger

For the fourth installment of Nock Out® Lighted Nock’s Field Journals, The Virtue’s TJ Unger talks about bow practice for turkeys and his setup for bow hunting turkeys without a blind! TJ is committed to the challenge of bow hunting turkeys without a blind. In order to be successful both the shot and the setup need to be rehearsed.

The challenge of bow hunting turkeys comes down to one essential moment…the draw. Without proper planning, a hunter’s body can be positioned in a way that will not offer the opportunity to draw on a close bird. TJ elects to sit on a ground seat with his body turned to the side from where he expects the turkey to approach. The decoy will be positioned 10 yards directly to the side of TJ. This allows him to draw his bow back without hitting brush or his knees, while the birds will be positioned perfectly in his shooting lane. If able, brushing in his side from the approach of the turkeys will give him a wall to draw behind, and enough time to be settled before the tom arrives at his decoy and shooting lane.

Indiana’s season opened Wednesday, April 25th, the first opportunity for TJ to test out this setup. The morning brought an opportunity to shoot a gobbler and TJ capitalized on it. The tom worked its way within 6 yards before TJ let the arrow fly. This turkey bow hunting setup without a blind worked perfectly on opening day!

For more tips or videos on bow hunting turkeys check out the articles below!

Bow Hunting Turkey Tips

      

Tips to Guide Your Turkey Bow Practice

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Bow Hunting Turkey Practice Tips

Feature: The Virtue TV

The majority of whitetail bow hunters idealize a turkey hunt with a bow. However, the actual number of archers that follow through with this goal is significantly reduced once spring arrives. The lure of toting spurs and a fan over the shoulder is what usually pulls hunters away from the bow. The struggle and challenge that accompanies the satisfaction of harvesting a turkey with a bow usually outweighs the drive to actually achieve the goal. For those hunters that can resist the temptation of the shotgun, there is no greater reward. For those that achieve it, this style of hunting is a learned skill, meaning subsequent hunts will be much easier. If a turkey bow hunt is your dream, there are several turkey bow practice tips that can help make it happen in your first year!

Nock Out Lighted Nocks Pro Staff member TJ Unger of The Virtue TV pursues Indiana longbeards with a bow!

Turkey Bow Hunting Practice Tips

Hunting turkeys with a bow and arrow is a unique style of hunting and it requires dedicated bow practice. As with any type of hunting, this practice refers not only to the repetitive shooting of the bow, but tactics, strategies, and techniques that will be used in the field. Follow these tips to make your practice sessions productive, and to make sure you’re ready to take that turkey when the opportunity presents itself.

  • Shoot From the Ground – The most difficult turkey hunt is bow hunting turkeys from the ground…without a blind. This gives the hunter the ability to move and adjust setups during the course of the hunt. It also happens to be one of the most adrenaline filled turkey hunts available to a hunter. However, the one big problem with this tactic is the open movement of drawing the bow back. There is a very small or in most situations no chance of drawing the bow back without being spotted by a turkey. Add multiple toms into the mix of a setup and an alarm putt will sound! The only thing a hunter can do is use little pieces of broken cover and vegetation to hide. Setting up on a tom either in ambush-style hunting or running and gunning means taking a shot from various positions. Learning to shoot from crawling, laying, sitting, and crouched positions on the ground will go a long way toward your success with this tactic. During practice sessions, take time to draw and shoot from positions that are likely to occur in the field. Pay special attention to basic dynamics of the shot such as your anchor and follow through. Also, pay attention to what you cams or limbs might come into contact with once you release the arrow!

  • Shoot While Sitting – Ambushing a turkey from a ground blind is a better option if this is your first year attempting a turkey bow hunt. Turkey decoys within range of your blind and the right calling will bring the birds in for a perfect shot opportunity. The blind, specifically optimized for a dark inside, can mask the process of drawing a bow back. However, don’t think of ground blind turkey hunting as a walk in the park. It still requires practice. For the most part, two things interrupt most bow hunters when shooting out of a blind. The first is sitting in a chair instead of standing. Something that can be easy to alleviate with practice. The second is ensuring your arrow will not clip the edge, pole, or fabric of the ground blind. This can easily happen as your position suggests a clear flight from the sight, but the arrow sitting much lower on the riser. The most useful tip is to simply practice the exact blind and hunting setup in practice, decoys and all, to create a productive scenario.
  • Learn to Slow Draw – For turkey hunters, the true challenge comes from one unique asset…a turkey’s eyesight. While a blind or makeshift vegetation blind when hunting on the ground can interrupt or mask the draw of the bow, the reality is that turkeys can and will still spot the movement. The technique of slow drawing your bow can be effective at fooling a turkey’s visual defense even at close range and in the open. A slow draw is as simple as it sounds but takes practice to perfect. Try and slow your draw as long as possible, incrementally increasing how many seconds it takes to full draw each day or week before turkey season. Moving very slowly and smoothly can sometimes fool a turkey as he looks away and back again. A turkey will act defensive and quickly leave if he detects a quick movement that he doesn’t like, but a slow smooth action will go unnoticed. Once you’ve got the slow draw action perfected, practice your slow draw from each shooting position you might use in the field.

Photo Credit: Luke Fabian

  • Shoot at a Turkey Target – Turkeys are a much smaller target than whitetail hunters are used to. The vitals on a turkey are essentially 3X smaller than a deer’s, a deer’s vitals are roughly the size of a basketball and a turkey’s vitals are roughly softball sized. A pass-through shot on a turkey is not likely to leave much of a blood trail, so putting your shot on target in the vitals is a must. 3-D turkey targets in both fanned and walking positions can really help you develop an eye for where a turkey’s vitals are. Paper or burlap 2-D turkey targets can help you train your eye if a 3-D target is unavailable. Place shots at the turkey’s neck base on facing shots, just above the base of the beard. On broadside shots put the arrow where the wing butt connects to the body, people often feel this is too high of a shot, but this placement will put your broadhead right through a tom’s vitals. Finally, practice shooting a bird that is facing away. Put the arrow right on the anal vent for a lethal shot. Training your eye and your mind to identify the target and the exact location where you need to put the arrow gives you confidence in the field to make the shot count.
  • Put a Lighted Nock to Work – Lighted nocks are a valuable tool for bow hunters. The ability to key in on your arrow and watch it all the way to the target can really help in building accuracy and consistency. Hunting with a lighted nock, especially when using crossbows, is invaluable in the bright green spring woods and fields. A bright red or orange nock glowing to the target against the green colors of spring is easy to see. Lighted nocks for turkey hunting are an important tool to help you visualize the hit on a target during practice and the hit on a turkey during the hunt.
  • Use Mouth Calls – With both of your hands on the bow, you need to be able to use a mouth call. Grab a diaphragm call now and start practicing. You should be at a level to at least yelp, cut, cluck, kee-kee, and purr. You should also be able to call very softly to coax turkeys in closer into range as every yard counts with a bow.

Photo Credit: Lethal Instincts

Bow Hunting Gear for Turkeys

The bow practice tips for turkeys above should help your efforts of harvesting a turkey with a bow this spring. With practice underway, it’s time to turn your attention the gear you’ll be using. When you head out the door in pursuit of your gobbler with a bow, make sure you’ve got everything you need. This list will be different than your normal shotgun hunting list for turkeys as you have a lot more accessories when it comes to bow hunting.
  • Broadheads – Broadheads for turkeys come in a variety of styles. There are several on the market specific to turkey hunting like guillotine style broadheads. However, most broadheads you use for deer hunting can successfully take a turkey with an accurate shot. Regardless of your choice, make sure the broadhead you carry is one that you’ve practiced with numerous times.
  • Bow Holder – A bow holder comes in handy regardless of hunting from the ground or a blind. Having the bow in the vertical position (instead of hanging or across your legs), means you can have your bow ready without a lot of movement needed once a shot opportunity is present.
  • Lighted Nocks – Lighted nocks, as mentioned above, are a critical part of your arrow system. Using lighted nocks during practice and hunting scenarios give you an edge on accuracy and recovery of your arrow.
  • Archery Release – An archer’s release is a pivotal part of their bow hunting setup. The release of the arrow is critical to accuracy and consistency. Turkey hunting is typically done from the ground, and running and gunning to get ahead of hot toms may provide fast action. Be sure you’ve got a way to keep your release attached to your wrist so it doesn’t accidentally get left behind in all the action.
  • Turkey Tag and Hunting License – No hunting gear list is complete without your license and game tag. The fastest way to ruin a hunt is to realize you’ve forgotten your tag and your hunt is over.
  • Rangefinder – Spring turkeys are at home in hardwoods, creek bottoms, and green fields. Determining distances in open fields can be tricky. A tom strutting is an open hayfield or wheat field can be seen from a long distance. A range finder is critical to making sure you’re within range before you make the move to draw your bow.

Photo: Flatline Whitetails

This gear list isn’t complete by any means, but it does identify some things you need to remember when taking a bow to the field. Here are some other items that you’re a little more used to.
  • Turkey Calls
  • Face Paint or Camo Mask
  • Turkey Decoys
  • Bug Spray
  • Binoculars
  • Camo or Black Clothing (Ground Blind Hunting)

Don’t Ditch the Bow!

Don’t drop into the common pitfall of ditching the bow and settling for the shotgun. With the proper practice, tactics, and gear you should be able to fulfill your goal of a turkey with a bow!
Want more tips, tactics, and bow hunting strategies? Check out the blogs below!

Tuning Lighted Arrow Nocks | Nock Out® Lighted Nocks 

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Nock Out® Lighted Nocks | Tuning and Installing Lighted Nocks

Bow hunters have a responsibility to be as efficient and ethical as possible. This means making sure your equipment is tuned before the hunt. You wouldn’t shoot at a game animal without first making sure your new broadheads hit their mark, right?  The same can be said about installing lighted nocks to any hunting arrow setup. You should never add, subtract, or change anything about your bow, your arrow, or your accessories without first testing and tuning your bow. This is standard and common knowledge when it comes to broadheads, new fletching, a new rest, a new sight, a new release, or a new batch of arrows. This should also be extended to installing lighted nocks.  

Factors to Consider 

The fact is that the installing of a lighted nock means the arrow will fly differently than a standard or manufacturer’s arrow nock. Adding a lighted nock, like any other component of an arrow will not only adjust the weight, but the location and distribution of that weight,  the length of the arrow, and other factors to consider as they cause a difference in arrow flight. 

Arrow Nock Weight  

Regular nocks generally weigh between 8 and 16 grains, while contenders can run up to 25 grains, meaning Nock Out® lighted nocks are double the weight of most traditional nocks. This change in weight will impact your arrow’s front-of-center (FOC), requiring you to adjust your setup to compensate for the difference. Remember, the front-of-center helps determine your arrow’s trajectory.  This is especially important when choosing the proper field tips and broadheads.  In most instances, archers will want a higher front of center (more weight forward).  Most manufacturers often recommend an arrow with 10 – 15% FOC when fully assembled (with broadheads).

Weight isn’t the only factor that changes, as this can also affect your length. 

Arrow Nock Length

Length varies between types, brands, and even within brands. For example, the nock length is 1 5/8 for the original Nock Out® lighted nock, and 1 ½ for the Contenders. This difference changes the weight distribution of the arrow, and subsequently, its flight.

 

Indexing Your Arrow  

Finally, you’ll need to know how to properly index your arrow. This is one of the last things you should consider that could significantly alter arrow flight. This should remind you that you should never just insert a lighted nock without first indexing the arrow. The index (or cock) vane should be facing up directly in line with your string if you shoot a whisker biscuit, and down if you shoot a drop away rest.  

Knowing these factors ahead of installing a nock should allow you to shoot lighted nocks without sacrificing accuracy! Follow the information and steps below for installing lighted nocks.  

How to Install Lighted Nocks 

The new Nock Out® Contender and Nock Out® Contender 300 for Crossbows are the new leading lighted nock for the archery industry. The driving forces behind the Nock’s excelling features are the simplicity, strength, and functionality of the nock.  

The Nock Out® Contender comes with 3 black bushings, allowing it to fit X, H, and S/GT arrows.  

  • G nocks fit shafts with a .166-inch inside diameter. 
  • X nocks fit shafts with a .204-inch inside diameter. 
  • H nocks fit shafts with a .234-inch inside diameter. 
  • S nocks ‑ also called Super Nocks ‑ fit shafts with a .244-inch inside diameter. 
  • GT nocks fit shafts with a .246-inch inside diameter. 

Steps for Installing Lighted Nocks 

  • First, remove the regular nock from the arrow with a pair of pliers.  
  • Next, fit the right size bushing into the arrow shaft or in the case of X-nocks, the Contender directly into the shaft without the bushing.  
  • Next, you will want to install the Nock Out® Contender and index it so that the arrow vanes are properly aligned to your rest. This is also assuming that your broadhead and vanes are properly indexed. Improper nock indexing could cause improper arrow flight or contact with your arrow rest. This is especially true if you have long and/or helical vanes. The index (or cock) vane should be facing up directly in line with your string if you shoot a whisker biscuit, and down if you shoot a drop away rest.  
  • Once your nock is properly indexed in accordance with your vane, broadhead and rest, you are ready to sight the bow in.  
  • Sight the bow in like normal, adjusting the bow sight housing and pins in accordance with the yardage you wish to reference.

Ensuring your equipment is as accurate as possible is your ethical responsibility as a bow hunter. This includes your responsibility to realize the addition or subtraction of any gear, accessory, or arrow feature can and does alter accuracy.

Want more information? Check out the links below to find out more about Nock Out® lighted nocks or tuning your bow!

Lighted Nocks

Bow Tuning Steps

 

In-Depth Bow Tuning | 5 Steps to the Perfect Setup

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Bow Tuning Steps

As hunters, it’s our ethical responsibility to make sure our gear is ready, deadly, and going to perform as accurately as possible. This means not only having dependable gear but having a “tuned” setup that we can trust in the field.  Bow tuning should be at the core of our hunting values. 

Most people understand that their gear needs to be tuned occasionally, to ensure that it is functioning at its best. In reality, gear needs to be tuned frequently. Change arrows? Tune it. Change nocks? Tune it. Change broadheads? Tune it. Drop your bow? Tune it. Haven’t shot in a few weeks? Tune it!  

As you can tell, tuning shouldn’t be a one and done deal.  It should be a consistent process that you follow every time you change, damage, or upgrade your equipment. It should be implemented into everyone’s bow hunting routine. That’s why we have put together an in-depth guide detailing exactly what you should be focusing on and why.   If any of your equipment is not up to par, it’s your responsibility as a hunter to buy the right gear, understand it, tune, and test it. Let this article guide you on your way.

Step 1: Understand Your Equipment

A properly tuned bow requires you to understand what needs to be adjusted and why. This means knowing your gear and how it will affect your arrow’s flight. Below we go through each piece of equipment, detailing what you should be aware of and how to address it.

Your Bow 

Before you can tune anything, you have to make sure your mainstay piece is ready to go. A few things you should think about: 

  •  Did your string stretch?  
  • Are the cams aligned?  
  • Is your draw length appropriate?  

Strings and cables stretch over time, meaning mistimed cams, out of place peep sites, and too long of draw lengths. Adjustments can be easily made to remedy this.  You can either twist your bow string back down to its original length or adjust your equipment to compensate for the change.

 

Hunting Arrows 

Shooting the right arrow is a huge factor when trying to be consistent in the field. Too often, people buy the wrong arrow and waste significant time trying to site in their equipment, without ever knowing that their arrow is to blame.  

That’s why we recommend you refer to our Arrow Buying Guide before making any arrow purchases. 

For the purpose of this article, we have summarized the basics below:  

  • Arrow length: In general, shorter arrows are faster; longer arrows are safer.  Finding a happy medium can be done by pulling back your arrow to full draw and having an assistant measure a distance between 1-½” and 2” from the rest.  
  • Arrow stiffness: Higher speed bows generally require a stiffer arrow while slower bows will respond well to a flexible arrow.  Make sure to use the chart from your manufacturer to find the correct arrow for your setup.  
  • Arrow weight: As a general rule of thumb, a heavier arrow will penetrate an animal better, but a shorter arrow will be faster. Make sure you practice with the weight you will plan to kill with.  
  • Type of fletching: Fletching comes in multiple different lengths. However, the blazer vanes have become the standard.  Remember, the vanes and broadheads are dependent on each other. The bigger the vane, the heavier the broadhead can be. 
  • Fletching position: How you align your fletching will influence the way it moves during flight. There are three common alignments: straight, helical, and offset.  The most common is offset, which creates a relatively resilient arrow path (both fast and forgiving).  

As previously mentioned, the best way to tackle your arrows is by referring to our guide.

 

Step 2: Aligning Your Peep, Rest, and Nocking Point 

The next step is to make sure your arrow will be lined up with the center of the bow.  This means making sure your nocking point and rest are properly aligned, therefore allowing your arrow to be “centered”.  This is often called finding the center shot.   

There are numerous ways you can do this, including measuring your bow, or using a bow square. However, using a simple laser center-shot tool will work well and save you time.  

Here is how to set up a laser center-shot tool: 

  • Simply line up the laser where your site would be and center the laser on the bow string.  
  • When the laser is centered on the bowstring you can lock it in place.  
  • Next, you’ll want to have an arrow mounted on your rest without locking the rest in place.   
  • Once you have an arrow and a rest in place you’ll want to turn the laser on and align it with your arrow shaft. If the laser aligns with the shaft, the rest is in its proper place. If not, adjust it so it is. 
  • Tighten your rest and you are done! Your arrow should be at its true center shot.  

Next, you will want to make sure your peep site is located in a comfortable position. Too often, people find that they are lowering their heads to see through their site.  This is an uncomfortable position that will affect your form and consistency.  

To remedy this, close your eyes and draw your bow back to your anchor position. When you open your eyes, you should be looking through your peep site comfortably. If not, adjust and try again.  You’ll then want to reattach or attach a new site (if applicable). Specific site setups are beyond the scope of this article. However, when attaching any site, remember that a site closer to the riser is easier to keep on target while a site farther from the riser will be more accurate. In addition, make sure your pins are aligned with a nocked arrow and the string. 

If you don’t have the right equipment (such as a bow press, bow square, or laser), don’t be afraid to bring your gear to your local shop. They can help inspect your strings and make any proper adjustments. Knowing that your gear is in good shape will boost your confidence and make the tuning process easier.

 

Arrow Nocks

Many people forget the significance the nock has on arrow flight. Using the right nock for your setup is important. Therefore, when looking for one, we recommend using our Nock Out Contenders. 

Why go lighted? Not only do lighted nocks reduce the risk of losing your arrows and your game, but they also help with fine tuning your bow. They make arrow flight patterns easy to identify, helping you tune your equipment with ease.   

However, with nontraditional technology comes nontraditional specs.  One of the biggest changes between traditional and lighted nocks is the nock weight.

Regular nocks generally weigh between 8 and 16 grains, while contenders can run up to 25 grains, meaning Nock Out® lighted nocks are double the weight of most traditional nocks. This change in weight will impact your arrow’s front-of-center (FOC), requiring you to adjust your setup to compensate for the difference. Remember, the front-of-center helps determine your arrow’s trajectory.  This is especially important when choosing the proper field tips and broadheads.  In most instances, archers will want a higher front of center (more weight forward).  Most manufacturers often recommend an arrow with 10 – 15% FOC when fully assembled (with broadheads).

 

Weight isn’t the only factor that changes, as this can also affect your length. Length varies between types, brands, and even within brands. For example, the nock length is 1 5/8th for the original Nock Out® lighted nock, and 1 ½ for the Contenders. This difference changes the weight distribution of the arrow, and subsequently, its flight. 

Finally, you’ll need to know how to properly index your arrow. The index (or cock) vane should be facing up directly in line with your string if you shoot a whisker biscuit, and down if you shoot a drop away rest.  

The Nock Out® Contender comes with 3 black bushings, allowing it to fit X, H, and S/GT arrows.  

  • G nocks fit shafts with a .166-inch inside diameter. 
  • X nocks fit shafts with a .204-inch inside diameter. 
  • H nocks fit shafts with a .234-inch inside diameter. 
  • S nocks  also called Super Nocks  fit shafts with a .244-inch inside diameter. 
  • GT nocks fit shafts with a .246-inch inside diameter. 

Make sure to find the Nock Out that is most suited for your setup.  

Your Broadheads & Field Tips 

Finding the proper broadheads and field tips should come after assembling the rest of your arrow.  This is because your field tip and broadhead weight will depend on what your FOC (front of center) will need to be. This is where the nock weight becomes incredibly important.   

When picking the right broadheads, try to shoot for the 10% to 15% FOC. Why? Because you will have relatively balanced penetration and trajectory. An arrow with too much weight forward will fall too fast, and an arrow with too much weight behind will lose force and accuracy.

Weigh Your Arrow 

After you have properly assembled arrows, you are going to want to weigh and spin them. Remember when we mentioned the different arrow weights, nock weights, and vanes will influence your arrow flight? Weighing your arrows will tell you if each arrow is assembled and flying the same, therefore making your groups more accurate.  

Make sure you weigh and spin test each arrow after assembly and before paper tuning. 

Know your equipment, understand why you have the equipment you do, and then you’ll be ready to fine-tune your setup.

Step 3: Paper Tune

Once your equipment is properly setup, you are going to want to paper tune your gear to iron out any minor issues.   Keep in mind, paper tuning doesn’t work if you don’t know what to adjust.  

Paper tuning should be used as a method of finding any minor problems.  

Below are a few of the basic steps to paper tuning your bow setup.  

  • Find a piece of paper, backstop, and be ready to shoot approximately six to eight feet away from it.  
  • To find out which adjustments need to be made, the arrow needs to shoot all of the way through the paper. Therefore, be sure to set your backstop far enough away.  
  • When shooting, focus on form. Bad form can compromise the entire test.  
  • After shooting, analyze the shape in the paper. A perfect tear means your bow is properly tuned.

Step 4: Sighting In

Once everything is aligned, you’ll finally get to sight in your bow!  If your gear is aligned correctly and paper tuned, sighting in should be a simple process.  

As mentioned previously, sighting in for any particular site is beyond the scope of this article. However, for a general reference, follow the steps below.  

Start by sighting your first pin at your chosen distance (usually 20 yards). You can always take your first few shots within 20 yards if you are worried that your shot will be significantly off.   

If you shoot high, move your pin higher.  If you shoot low move your pin lower. The same goes for left and right. “Follow your arrow” is the general term used when adjusting your site.  

Be sure to site in over the course of days or even weeks. Shooting too much at any given time will result in fatigue and influence the accuracy of your shot.  There will also be days where your form varies, or you simply perform better than others. Therefore, be sure to give yourself enough time to properly sight in before hitting the field.   

Step 5: Stay Consistent 

Your consistency out of the field will affect your consistency on the field. Therefore, checking your equipment, paper tuning, and making regular adjustments are crucial to your success as a bow hunter. It not only improves your bows performance but provides you with confidence when making any shot. Being responsible both on and off the stand is what makes a bow hunter great. 

For more information on archery equipment and hunting tactics, be sure to visit our Nock Out In Action blog.

 

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Arrow Buying Guide | What You Need To Know

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Nock Out® | Guide to Buying Hunting Arrows

Being an informed bow hunter is part of our ethical code. This includes buying equipment that we know can do the job and do it well.  Buying hunting arrows that fit our setup is essential. Unfortunately, hunters often end up purchasing the first set of arrows that they lay their eyes on. This quick decision can be costly when arrows don’t fly right and game is lost. Therefore, it should be known that finding the right arrow can be just as important as finding the right bow. There are several elements that every hunter needs to know before purchasing hunting arrows. This ranges from the basics to the finer details of a shooter’s form.  Knowledge truly is power in bow hunting.  Our “Guide to Buying Hunting Arrows” is the perfect solution for making an informed purchase.

 

Remember, purchasing the correct arrow for your setup can make or break your next hunt.

Hunting Arrow Basics

An arrow has four main parts: a nock, fletching, a shaft, and a tip.  You can purchase arrows assembled, or you can assemble them on your own. All four parts come in different sizes, weights, and have unique features.  All of these differences will impact the arrow’s flight.

Arrow flight is also dependent on numerous other factors including arrow weight, shaft length, draw length, draw poundage, bow accessories, speed, and the environmental conditions.  Once these concepts are fully understood, you can utilize a system of measurements and charts to find your perfect setup.

Draw Length

One of the first things to consider when going through the arrow purchasing process is measuring your bow’s draw length. The draw length will directly influence the performance of the arrow you will purchase.  

Many times, hunters shoot too long of a draw length.  Whether it be by mistake, or the desire to gain speed, having too long of length can cause serious form issues. Keep in mind, no equipment can fix poor form.  

If you aren’t sure what your draw length should be (or you simply forgot), you can find it by measuring your full arm span and dividing it by 2.5.

Draw Weight

The next important factor to consider is draw weight. The greater the draw weight means higher speed and penetration (all else being equal).  However, don’t increase weight at the cost of your form. When archers have too high of a draw weight, they become over bowed and their shot becomes negatively affected. 

You’ll need to know your draw weight to determine your arrow spine. However, remember to keep your weight comfortable and don’t get too caught up in the speed factor.

Photo: Flatline Whitetails

Hunting Arrow Length

Many people will use their draw length as a standard for their arrow length.  Although this works, there is a better way.  

Because different rests have different specifications, it’s better to measure arrow length by drawing your bow with a nocked arrow.  Make sure to have somebody assist you with the measurement.  When most people think of arrow length, they consider the following: 

  • Shorter arrows are faster 
  • Longer arrows are safer 

To find your proper draw length, pull back your arrow to full draw and have an assistant measure a distance between 1-½” and 2” from the rest. Keep in mind, an arrow that falls too short can cause you to shoot through your hand.  

Some experienced archers prefer a shorter length for speed. Don’t cut your arrows for this reason unless you fully understand the repercussions of a short arrow.

Hunting Arrow Weight

As a general rule of thumb, medium to heavy weighted arrows serve hunters better for two main reasons.  

  • A heavier arrow will penetrate the deer better 
  • Heavier arrows reduce noise and vibration  

However, many archers still choose to shoot lighter arrows because they are faster. Below are some general guidelines when considering arrow weight. 

  • Lighter arrows are sufficient for competition 
  • Heavier arrows are better for hunting 
  • Hunters should use between 6 to 8 grain per pound of draw weight  

Never shoot an arrow lighter than 5-grains per pound of draw weight.  Shooting too light of an arrow can harm your bow and potentially void your warranty. Also keep in mind that weight measurements include your entire setup (shaft, vanes, nock, tips, and insert). For archers shooting a lower draw weight, say 50# or less, it’s recommended to shoot an arrow on the heavier side of that range.

Shopping hunting arrows online at eastonhunting.com. Easy, fast, and great arrows!

Arrow Spine Rating

The spine rating could be considered the most important aspect of an arrow.  By definition, it’s considered the “stiffness.” However, it’s much more complex than that. Using the wrong chart or an unfamiliar setup can result in having an arrow that doesn’t shoot straight.  

Spine rating is complicated for a few big reasons: 

  •  It’s dependent on numerous variables 
  • Charts and ratings differ between manufacturers 

Unfortunately, the lack of a universal chart makes things very difficult for new archers.  There are two common ways to look at stiffness: dynamically and statically. Static spine rating is a standard method for determining arrow stiffness.  It is done by taking an 880-grain weight and using it to bend a 28” arrow. 

However, everybody shoots different length arrows, variously weighted bows, and have entirely different setups.  All of these various factors will impact the desired stiffness of the shaft.  This is considered the “dynamic” aspect of stiffness. 

Despite the differences in ratings, there is usually a general pattern between arrow stiffness ratings: the smaller the number, the stiffer the arrow.  For example, a 400-grain arrow will be stiffer than a 500-grain arrow according to the static standards.  However, this isn’t always the case when shooting a bow with different weight to different length ratios. Other factors such as bow speed, string type, and rest also can influence dynamic spine ratings.  Don’t forget that a 400-grain arrow from one brand is different than a 400-grain arrow from another.

Photo: Flatline Whitetails

Although there is no perfect method, be sure to always refer to your manufacturer’s spine chart.  This will take into account your draw weight and draw length as mentioned above.  This can help assure that you make the most appropriate purchase for your setup.

Arrow Fletching

There are three common types of vane lengths.  These are 2”, 3”, and 4”.  Although you could find vanes sized between those measurements, these are considered the standards. Picking a vane will depend on your broadhead setup (or perhaps picking a broadhead will depend on your vane setup), so pick carefully.  Here are the biggest considerations: 

  •  A longer vane allows greater broadhead stabilization.  
  • A shorter vane is more forgiving in the wind. 
  • Longer vanes work better with large, fixed blade broadheads.  
  • Mechanical broadheads will allow you to shoot nearly any vanes.  

Also, note that how an arrow is fletched (how it is turned on the shaft) is just as important as the type of fletching itself. There are three standards:

Straight

A straight position allows for an arrow to have the least resistance during flight. This will yield the highest speed but also the greatest variance of the three positions.  A straight position is best for competition shooters where environmental conditions are irrelevant, and the bow is perfectly tuned.  

 Helical 

The helical position is the most forgiving.  It allows your arrows to rotate during flight, improving arrow stabilization and accuracy at greater distances. Although this would be the ideal setup for most hunters, it isn’t always appropriate.  

Some arrow rests won’t allow the arrow to be cleared when positioned helically.  

Offset 

An offset is a mix of the two. It’s the most common for this reason. 

You can learn more about fletching arrows by referring to our Fletching the Perfect Hunting Arrow for your Bow Hunting Setup article.

 

Fletching the Perfect Arrow

Arrow Nocks

There are many different features to consider when purchasing nocks.  They not only come in all different sizes and varieties, they also differ in quality.  However, there is one thing you can do to improve every shot:  buying lighted nocks. This not only helps when fine tuning your bow, but it can eliminate the chance of losing arrows and losing harvested game. Thankfully, Nock Out® has you covered. Nock Out® Lighted Nocks are lightweight, bright, and reliable. They are a perfect all-in-one solution when you are looking for that nock for your perfect setup. 

Best Lighted Nock Color

Other Hunting Arrow Tips and Considerations

As most of you are aware, you will need to purchase two types of tips. One type to practice and one type to hunt. They should be the same weight to assure proper tuning.   

Broadheads  

There are two types of broadheads: mechanical and fixed blade. 

Mechanical 

These broadheads expand during the shot.  The compacted point reduces surface area and increases speed and accuracy. However, you risk the chance of them NOT growing, which is particularly common with low poundage bows. 

Fixed Blade

Fixed blade broadheads have greater surface area and more weight.  Therefore, their flight isn’t as accurate, but they are more reliable for those shooting lighter poundage.  

Also, don’t forget the relationship between the broadheads and fletching that we discussed earlier. Smaller fletching works better with mechanical and small fixed blade broadheads.  The heavier the broadhead, the larger the fletching. 

Field Tips

The biggest key to purchasing field tips is shooting the same grain as your broadheads.  Also, make sure that you shoot the same arrow and the same setup during practice.  Doing this will improve your odds of executing the shot when it matters the most.  

Final Considerations

Having a strong understanding of your archery setup and your goals can not only improve your accuracy but completely modify your shooting experience. It will change the way you make purchases.  Not every shop owner is going to treat you right, and far too often hunters are convinced to buy a setup that isn’t good for them. However, now that you know what to look for when purchasing your arrow equipment, you can make the best possible purchase for your performance and your wallet.  

For a more in-depth review on arrow anatomy, be sure to check out our article “What You Should Know About Your Hunting Arrows.“ 

Hunting Arrow Anatomy

Tracking a Deer Blood Trail 101

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Bow Hunting 101 | Deer Blood Trail Tracking

If you’ve shot a deer before while bow hunting, you’re probably familiar with the general sequence of events. Going from shot to recovery can take mere minutes or days, depending on several factors. It’s always a possibility that we could lose sight of a deer blood trail, which is guaranteed to result in sleepless nights. Here are some tips for blood trailing deer so you can improve your recovery rates and become a better hunter! 

Stages of Tracking a Deer   

Hopefully, for your sake, you are reading this blog before you make the shot. Ensuring that you know and follow each step of the blood trail tracking process is extremely important. With that said, this blog will take you through each step of the deer blood trail tracking method from directly after the shot, to the point where you recover your deer.  

Replay the Shot 

The moments directly after you release an arrow are some of the most critical seconds of a hunt that can influence the end result.  Assess the shot and replay it in your mind several times. After that, you should be able to answer each of these questions:

  • Which way was the deer facing? 
  • Was there any quartering that could have affected what organs were hit?  
  • How did the deer react when the arrow made contact?  
  • Is there a noticeable landmark (dead snag tree, spruce tree, etc.) in the area you shot it?  
  • Which direction did the deer run? 
  • What is the last landmark you remember the deer running by?  
  • Did you hear a crash?  

Burn these details into your mind before you even think about packing up to start blood trailing deer. A good rule of thumb is to wait at least 15 minutes while you replay everything unless you watched the deer drop within view. 

Many times, you can learn the most useful information by watching how the deer reacted and where your lighted nock disappeared. One of the benefits of using lighted nocks is that you can pinpoint exactly where the arrow strikes a deer. Regardless of which color nock you prefer, you can literally watch the LED light trail from the Nock Out Contender nocks and see precisely where it blinks out as it enters a deer’s chest cavity. Pay attention to how the deer behaves at this stage. If it jumps into the air and kicks its hind legs (oftentimes almost losing its footing), it’s very likely a heart, lung, or liver shot. If it hunches up its back and runs for a short distance before slowing down and walking away, you may have shot them in the paunch area in another place considered “no man’s land”. 

Stage 2: Look for Evidence 

After replaying all of these details in your mind, climb down and navigate to the landmark where you believe you shot the deer. This is where many hunters go wrong with tracking deer. Many hunters mistakenly just take up the trail immediately. Even if there is obvious blood, this action can ruin your recovery efforts quickly in the wrong situation. You’ll obviously be looking for blood, but also pay attention to hair, disturbed leaves, and broken branches. Lots of white hair means either your shot was low on the stomach or it exited the deer low.

Looking at the arrow

Hunting arrows can tell you a lot too. Examine the blood on it and give it a sniff. You may even have an indicator section or white wrap that can clearly show the blood. We’ll look at the blood types below for different shots, but if it smells rotten, it’s likely you made a paunch hit. 

Stage 3: Deciding on the Type of Deer Blood  

Knowing when to track deer after shooting is very important. Now for the real investigative part of the deer recovery process: the blood. Deer blood sign will be different depending on where you hit them. Look for this kind of blood evidence in the immediate vicinity of the shot location before proceeding with blood trailing deer.

Heart/Lungs

Blood from a heart and/or lung shot will be very distinctive. It will usually be bright red and frothy (lots of small bubbles) because blood in these organs is full of oxygen. Depending on the entry and exit wounds, you may also notice spurts of blood on the ground and even on the tree trunks and shrubs periodically, as the heart pumps it out. 

Liver 

Whitetail livers are tucked behind the lungs and higher up from the heart. Blood from these shots will usually be darker red or purplish, and may be thicker in consistency. It also may only drip from the deer after a while, producing a harder blood trail to follow. 

Paunch (Stomach/Intestines)

The dreaded paunch or gut shot is something no hunter wants to make, but it does occasionally happen for a number of reasons. Blood from these hits will usually be thin and watery-looking, and may even contain green/yellow bits of undigested food in it. The blood will also smell foul, like stomach contents ought to.

Stage 4: Blood Trailing Deer 

Knowing how to track a wounded deer is a critical skill you need to have. Depending on what you find at the arrow site, you’ll have a few different choices to make. Obviously, the sooner you recover your deer, the fresher and safer the venison meat will be. You may also be contending with coyotes and other hungry scavengers who would happily steal your kill. So knowing how long to wait and ultimately how far a deer will travel will help you know when you can start tracking a deer.

Tracking Heart/Lung Hit Deer 

Unsurprisingly, the heart and lungs are vital organs, so a deer shot in either of them won’t last long or travel far. If you find frothy bright red blood at the shot site (and assuming you waited at least 15 minutes before getting down), you should be able to take up the trail immediately. It’s unlikely for a heart/lung-shot deer to travel more than 100 yards unless you only clipped one lung.  

Tracking Liver Hit Deer 

While a liver shot is always fatal, it will take longer for a deer to expire. If you find the thicker, dark red blood, wait at least four hours if possible before you start tracking. Liver shot deer will usually bed down within 200 yards to rest. If unpressured, they will usually bleed out and expire in these first beds. But if you rush in, you may jump the bedded deer. Since they may only produce droplets for a blood trail, every further inch you push them makes your tracking job much harder. 

Tracking Paunch or Stomach Hit Deer 

A paunch shot is usually also a death sentence for a deer, but it could take days to happen. The blood trail may also be sparse enough for you to lose the trail before you find the deer itself. If you notice a foul smell on your arrow or thin watery blood, quietly back out of the area. If there is no rain forecasted and if it’s a cool night, you can leave a deer overnight to track it in the morning. If it’s going to be hot in the early season, rainy, or you’ve got lots of predators on the property, try to give it at least four hours before blood trailing. Similar to the liver discussion, you don’t want to jump them from their beds. A gut-shot deer can run for miles before expiring, which could potentially push them off your property. 

Stage 5. Employing Helpful Blood Trailing Tips and Tactics 

Slow Down! – When blood trailing deer, you need to move slowly and pay attention to everything simultaneously. You’ll need to move three to five times slower than normal so you can scan the ground and trees for blood and glance ahead to look for the deer. Stop often to listen and scan ahead with binoculars.  

Walk to the Side – As you walk along, make sure you don’t destroy the blood trail by walking on it – walk to the side of the trail. When you lose track of the blood, leave signs at the last spot you saw it. You can use flagging tape, toilet paper, or even your Nock Out lighted nocks! Start by walking in small circles around the last spot, and you’ll usually find where the blood trail picks up again. If you can’t find more blood, as mentioned above, pay attention to upturned leaves, rushed deer tracks, and broken branches, as this indicates a deer moving through the area at a fast pace.  

Keep One Nocked – Keep your bow nocked with another arrow in the off-chance you can make a follow-up shot, if needed. This is harder for archery than it would be with a firearm, but sometimes you might spot a bedded deer and get a shot before it bolts again.

Hopefully, you’ll have an opportunity this fall to put these blood tracking tips to good use. If you haven’t already check out the NEW Contender Lighted Nocks from Nock Out®.

Contender Lighted Nocks

 

Nock Out® Pro Staff Spotlight | Shelby Arman’s 2017 Buck

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Bow Hunting Spotlight | Shelby Arman’s 2017 Buck

By: Shelby Arman of Ultimate Outdoor Adventures TV

I had just driven the 250 miles back from college, making it just in time to head down to our Ranch with my Dad for the weekend. The winds were out of the South East, so we headed across the river to a stand we hadn’t hunted yet this season. This was a cool little setup that was overlooking a kill plot back off the main food plot, nestled in the trees about a hundred yards away. We had trail camera pictures of several nice deer throughout the summer on this food plot, but the only problem is that we hadn’t seen them in a month. Needless to say, my hopes were not real high. The only thing that was in our favor was that the neighbors had just combined all of the corn where we thought the deer had moved to. After about an hour in the stand, I figured that my chances of seeing a good deer, let alone any deer, were slipping away.

Just as that thought had entered my mind, a little doe appeared in the food plot. I sat and watched her nibbling on the turnip leaves for several minutes before she lifted her head and looked behind her. As I sat with anticipation and thought of what may or may not come in…a buck appeared! It was “Charlie, the big 8 pointer that we had watched grow over the last two years. It took everything I had in me to keep it together as “Charlie” walked by me at 25 yards. I settled my pin behind his shoulder and released my arrow.

I watched my arrow find its mark. With the help of the Nock Out® lighted nocks, I found my arrow and it was a short tracking job to this massive 8 pointer! Big thanks to my Dad for always being my best friend and hunting partner!

Shelby’s Bow Hunting Equipment:

· Hoyt® Carbon Defiant

· Beman® ICS Hunters

· Apex™ Gear sights, rest, and stabilizer

· NAP® Kill zone broadheads

· Nikon® Optics

· Hawk® Tree stands

· Nock Out® lighted nocks